Influence Peddler: Vlogger Liah Yoo to Kickoff Skin-Care Brand ‘Krave’

Liah Yoo is South Korean and her products are formulated in South Korea, but don’t call her new skin-care line, Krave, a K-beauty brand.
The vlogger, who specializes in skin care on her YouTube channel “Yellowy Cream,” is about to introduce a range of what she called “functional skin care.” Her take on beauty is less is more — a stark contrast to the 10-step South Korean skin-care routine.
“I really wanted to strip it down to the basics and start from a minimal range,” Yoo said in an interview during her most recent trip to New York. “As a consumer, a lot of young customers start to apply more and more [products on their face], causing more inflammation, chronic skin disease or never curing acne or redness. There’s a fundamental issue in the skin-care industry.”
That’s why she opted to introduce an initial Core Series of “basics” and a Supplement Series, launching just one product from each group to start: a cleanser (Core) and an exfoliator (Supplement). These both go on sale at Kravebeauty.com on Dec. 12. A third product — a sunscreen she’s still perfecting that will fall into the Core Series — will be released in the spring.
Yoo has a

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Source: http://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/influence-peddler-vlogger-liah-yoo-to-launch-skin-care-brand-krave-11059068/

Deciem to Unveil The Ordinary With Sephora in U.S., Canada

Deciem — The Abnormal Beauty Company — is ready to make it in America.
In a multipronged approach, Deciem is opening several stand-alone stores in the U.S. in the next few months and launching its most famous brand — The Ordinary — in Sephora. The moves are the company’s first major push into the U.S. market. So far, Deciem’s projected $120 million to $150 million in net sales for 2017 are coming in from smaller markets, like the U.K., Canada, Australia and South Korea. Even without the U.S., Deciem was on track to double in 2018, according to chief executive officer and founder Brandon Truaxe, who in a move in line with his business’s transparency, pulled out the company’s financials on his phone during a meeting at the Plaza Hotel in New York.
“What really excites me is the fact that outside of just some online sales, without really any significant marketing, that number excludes the United States,” Truaxe said. “For most brands, even to get to $20 million — the U.S. is the reason they make it there.”
His personality — frank, genuine, with a dose of whimsy and heap of logic — touches all points of the Deciem brands. “I

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Source: http://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/skin-care/deciem-to-launch-the-ordinary-with-sephora-in-u-s-canada-11057522/

Beauty Partners Purchase Coastal Salt & Soul

Beauty Partners is branching beyond nails with the purchase of Coastal Salt & Soul, a bath and body care brand.
Terms of the deal were not disclosed, but Coastal Salt & Soul will be operated under a newly formed subsidiary of Beauty Partners called Celebrate Beauty Brands. Coastal Salt & Soul was created by Alisa Marie Beyer who remains with the company as chief innovation officer. Beyer will also stay on as a minority owner, as well as early investors Fredrick Fogelman and Teresa Shultz Fogelman.
This marks Beauty Partners first acquisition. Its founders, Barry Shields and Bruce Kowalsky, have big plans for the brand of beach-inspired bath and body products.
“With Coastal’s existing portfolio of hugely popular butters, hand creams and scrubs, as well as the development of new products and scents, we anticipate 2018 revenues between $15 million to $20 million” Kowalsky observed. “Together with Alisa and the rest of the team, we’re ready to start product development and innovation on new stock keeping units and consumer offerings.”
Shields told WWD the company plans to leverage its existing contacts in the industry and experience in beauty to build out Coastal Salt & Soul in North American and abroad. “It is a great fit

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Source: http://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/beauty-partners-purchase-coastal-salt-soul-11059767/

CEW Panel Discusses How to Win in Prestige Beauty

Who’s winning in prestige beauty?
This was the topic at the CEW’s latest panel held Wednesday night at the Harmonie Club. Moderated by WWD executive beauty editor Jenny Fine; Alex Choueiri, president of international designer collections at L’Oréal USA; Terry Darland, president of parfums Christian Dior North America; Kirsten Kjaer Weis, chief executive officer of Kjaer Weis, and Tomoko Yamagishi-Dressler, senior vice president of marketing and sales at Clé de Peau Beauté sat down to discuss what it takes to succeed in the prestige beauty market.
The panelists started off by giving insight into the state of their businesses.
“I think for spring the market, especially in fine fragrances, has been more difficult,” Choueiri said, noting this year’s hurricanes in Texas and Florida had a negative impact on sales. “We had a rough patch of events that drove consumption quite down, but I think we’re in a positive way getting the comeback of this.”
Dior experienced growth across categories. “The makeup business has rebounded for us, driven by lips, eyes and face,” Darland said, also stating women’s fragrance has been consistent and men’s fragrance has been driven by Sauvage.
For Clé de Peau, the beauty business experienced double-digit growth. “I think across the category in

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Source: http://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/cew-panel-discusses-how-to-win-prestige-beauty-11060336/

Too Faced Opens First Flagship in London

LONDON — Too Faced has crossed the pond and opened its first bricks-and-mortar store here.
The California-based brand was launched in 1998 by former Estée Lauder employees Jerrod Blandino and Jeremy Johnson and is known for its fun lineup of cosmetics. While Blandino could have set up shop closer to home, he said he wanted it to be special and wanted it to be a destination that people would go to. He said London is one of his biggest inspirations for him creatively and that he was being strategic about “growing slow and sure” and wanted to wait for the right time and for the right place.
“I love London,” said Blandino. “When the opportunity came up for Carnaby Street — an iconic fashion, style mecca — I just jumped at it. It’s so completely Too Faced to be there. It’s fun, there’s energy, there’s color and there’s history. It just clicked and I felt right in my heart and soul about it. There’s an energy and spirit to Carnaby Street that I felt. You feel like you want to go shopping, be fabulous and find a treasure. It’s iconic, and even as an American, you can feel the special spirit.”
The American

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Source: http://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/color-cosmetics/too-faced-opens-first-flagship-london-11061393/

MAC, Bumble and bumble to Introduce Express Service Retail Concept

NEW YORK — Look out, Drybar.
The leading blow-dry bar and pioneer in a growing express service category is about to get some high-profile competition from MAC Cosmetics and Bumble and bumble.
Today, the two Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.-owned brands will open the MAC & Bumble and bumble Makeup and Hair Studio, a new retail concept that’s half-express salon specializing in blowouts and makeup application and half-retail store. The 2,200-square-foot space will bow in Dallas’ NorthPark Center — a hub for luxury shopping and a top five market for both MAC and Bumble and bumble.
For Gustavo Andriani, MAC’s senior vice president, general manager for North America, the idea was born from a storied fashion week relationship and “shared backstage arena” that saw MAC’s senior makeup artists and Bumble stylists working in concert to prep models for the shows.
“Artists [from MAC and Bumble] have been collaborating — that’s been going on for a long time — but the company historically hasn’t tried to put the brands together because consumers experience the brands individually,” Andriani said in an interview at Bumble and bumble’s newly revamped salon space in its Meatpacking Industry headquarters here. “It’s innovative in its interpretation but it immediately felt so right because

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Source: http://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/mac-bumble-and-bumble-to-introduce-mac-bumble-studio-express-service-retail-concept-11060177/

Cold Night, Warm Heart

The UNICEF-sponsored snowflake that hangs at the intersection of 57th Street and Fifth Avenue might have been illuminated during the organization’s 13th annual Snowflake Ball on Tuesday evening, but it was L’Oréal’s Carol Hamilton who really shone. Hamilton was honored with the Spirit of Compassion award for her work in creating clean water supplies for impoverished children worldwide through Giorgio Armani’s Acqua di Gio Acqua for Life program. Since its inception in 2009, the program has raised more than $4 million.
Hamilton, the group president of L’Oréal Luxe USA, has long championed philanthropic initiatives at L’Oréal. But a 2009 meeting with UNICEF’s Caryl Stern made the professional personal for Hamilton, who has since been on three missions with the organization and also serves on Unicef USA’s board. Noting that she doesn’t have children, she spoke of the impact the trips had on her, particularly a journey to Mekele, Ethiopia, where a newly built water station provides safe, clean water for villagers in a 20-meter radius “24 hours a day, seven days a week,” Hamilton said proudly. There, she met a young girl who took a shining to the executive. “She asked me, ‘Can I be your child,’” remembered Hamilton. “That moment changed my

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Source: http://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/cold-night-warm-heart-11060498/

Ceramiracle Unveils Combination Spa, Cafe Focused on Wellness in Kuala Lumpur

Dovetailing on the wellness movement, Ceramiracle has opened what it calls an “ageless café,” in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
The Santa-Monica-based skin-care brand unveiled its 3,500 square-foot combination spa and cafe on Nov. 28. The opening was attended by members of Malaysia’s Royal Family and other local celebrities. Appointments quickly booked up for the entire week, according to Ceramiracle’s founder Eugene He.
To stand out in the market, He sought to duplicate the buzz surrounding Hollywood skin care made popular by celebrities and social media stars. “Asia is filled to the brim with beauty salons and aesthetic clinics, so competition is brutal. What we are offering is something that is unique and the first in Asia — an experience to be treated like a celebrity, learn about the benefits of beauty herbs and walk out ready for the red carpet,” Ceramiracle’s founder said.
The spa section, called The Aesthetics Salon, provides California-inspired facials combining light, deep RF (radio frequency) and ice therapies. The signature Celebrity Medi-facial is priced at $170 dollars for 80 minutes. It is the only facial offered to keep the experience stress-free and “not bombard out customers with an extensive menu of treatments,” He explained.
Ceramiracle’s line of products are used in the

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Source: http://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/ceramiracle-unveils-combination-spa-and-cafe-11058328/

Mass-Market Discounts Beauty Early to Get Its Share of Sales

The mass market, once the last-minute holiday gift-shopping stop, muscled its way in on the early beauty shopping bonanza this year.
With the cosmetics business clicking on all gears, chains such as CVS, Walgreens, Target Corp., Kohl’s Corp. and Wal-Mart Stores Inc. released deep discounts earlier than in the past.
The ploy worked with spot checks over the weekend of mass stores reporting traffic and sales up an estimated 4 percent over last year. The stream of customers started on Thanksgiving Day when many drug and discount stores stayed open. Many customers were buying for themselves with plans to buy gifts in the weeks to come.
One beauty brand top executive said he noticed chains releasing their deals as early Nov. 1. “The extended sale period is an intentional plan [of retailers] to stay relevant to eager shoppers. Watch for even more heavy discounting in the weeks to come to fend off e-commerce competitors.” Retailers queried by WWD confessed off the record. “We wanted to get out ahead of the Kylie Cosmetics of the world,” said one.
Beyond halting the flow of sales to online, mass retailers want to claim a share of the $62 billion U.S. cosmetics category as measured by MarketResearch.com.
With a

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Source: http://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/mass-market-discounts-beauty-early-11056909/

Undercover Shopper: Ulta Beauty

Growing up in Indianapolis, I was never much of an Ulta shopper. As a teen beauty consumer in the early Aughts, I picked up my Tony + Tina and Delux Beauty glitter lip glosses and Benefit pineapple body scrub — likely purchased with a combination of babysitting money and bat mitzvah savings — at Sephora, whose brand assortment better catered to my burgeoning penchant for luxury goods. Ulta was known as the store where my mom replenished her Redken color-safe shampoo.
But when Ulta opened its very first Manhattan outpost in late October, I was more than happy to make the trek to the Upper East Side to play a “real” beauty shopper. Plus, Ulta has changed since I last entered a store — with chief executive officer Mary Dillon at the helm, prestige makeup now comprises the majority of Ulta’s business today, and I was curious to see how much the look and feel of the physical store was different from the more utilitarian one I once knew.
I make my journey to the southwest corner of East 86th Street and Third Avenue at around 4:30 p.m. on a Friday. Upon entering the sprawling and brightly lit white box, it hits me that

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Source: http://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/undercover-shopper-ulta-beauty-manhattan-11057095/