For this fragrance launch, the story is that there is no story.
Vio Volta, the latest scent from Brooklyn perfume line DS & Durga, was inspired by ingredients, explained David Moltz, the nose behind the fragrance and one half of the brains behind the business (wife Kavi Moltz is the other half).
While most of the fragrances Moltz puts out are meticulously aligned with storylines, Vio Volta was not one of them. “It comes from working with materials just for the fun of it,” Moltz said.
“[Usually] I beat myself up making something so authentic to my vision and that everything makes sense within the story and you can smell that,” Moltz said. “This is just like, ‘Oh, alright I made this cool thing f–k it, let’s put it out.’ And we just put it out super quickly, f–k the story, and we just put a lightning bolt on it and boom, it’s out.”
Vio Volta is available starting Sept. 20 — $175 for 50-ml., $260 for 100-ml. at Barneys New York and other DS & Durga sales points.
“I was messing around with this chemical that [smells like] really weird candy rhubarb — super powerful — and this other new chemical that’s really strong,
A band of fragrance veterans — including Frederic Jacques and Jean-Claude Delville — has started an unconventional kind of perfumery operation, called The Society of Scent, which is driven by free-wheeling collaboration with rule-breaking creativity as its centerpiece.
“The idea is to create a movement,” Jacques said, “that is why we have The Society of Scent.” He added, “What we want [ to do] is to make perfumery cool again.”
The focus of this movement is to put the perfumers back in the spotlight. He noted, “If you are going to create fragrances, you need to concentrate on the creation and not the production.”
In order to avoid walling off management into silos, the core group of partners describe their roles more in terms of their functions, rather than their specific titles. Jacques, whose last job was heading the fine fragrance division of Takasago, describes himself as a coordinator and a “driver of the ship to the destination.” Delville, who was a senior perfumer at Drom Fragrances before he retired in April, is master perfumer of the new firm.
Delville, who clearly values inclusiveness, said, “Yes, I am the perfumer, but we are all perfumers here. This is going to be a collaboration; we
Allure and Ulta Beauty are partnering to bring editor-approved beauty products to the masses.
“Shop Like a Beauty Editor” displays are rolling out into all 1,005 Ulta Beauty doors on Tuesday for two weeks, complete with booklets that walk shoppers through Allure editor product picks and personality profiles. The pamphlets will also be in Allure’s October issue, which identifies the 283 Beauty of Beauty award winners.
In that section, Allure editors single out their favorites. Editor-in-chief Michelle Lee, for example, has a profile that identifies her as a K-Beauty enthusiast. Her picks include Skinfix Facial Exfoliating Pads, the Urban Decay Naked Ultimate Basics palette and Neutrogena Light Therapy Mask.
“The idea was, ‘how do we personalize this?’” said Jill Friedson, vice president of marketing at Condé Nast Women’s Collection. “That’s how the Shop Like a Beauty Editor booklet came about, and really, the platform … the next best thing to shopping with an editor is shopping with her suggestions.”
“Guests can grab [it] and use it for inspiration and be able to move around the store and shop like a beauty editor,” said Shelley Haus, senior vice president of brand marketing at Ulta Beauty.
The partnership allows both parties to “reach even more beauty lovers,” said
Sustainability was the main theme at the National Beauty Science Institute’s panel Wednesday held at the New York Academy of Medicine.
The daylong event, which brought together 400 students from 10 universities, including New York University, Columbia and Parsons, focused on educating students on ways to make the beauty industry more sustainable.
Panelists, consisting of some of the industry’s top experts, discussed how their companies are striving for more sustainable practices and how they’d like to further their initiatives.
“Seventy percent of perfumery ingredients used are petrochemical based,” said Achim Daub, global president of scent and care at Symrise AG, during his panel discussing ways that innovation drives sustainable beauty. “That’s not necessarily bad, but the issue obviously is that it’s not sustainable because the world’s oil resources will not last forever, so as an industry we have a responsibility to minimize the use of petro-based ingredients.”
Daub went on to discuss three key ways to increase sustainability in the beauty industry, specifically in perfumery: green chemistry, converting bio-waste into value and equitable sourcing of natural materials. He stressed that these three ways will drive efficiency, minimize the use of water and minimize waste, which all in turn will increase sustainability.
Dr. Bruno Bavouzet, executive
LONDON — After two decades in business, Roland Mouret was looking for a new challenge — and he found it in perfume.
The London-based designer, who presented his spring 2018 collection in London on Sunday morning, partnered with the French perfumer Etat Libre d’Orange to debut his first fragrance, Une Amourette.
“Twenty years ago, I started draping in my kitchen without knowing how to, and now I got the opportunity to create a smell without [knowing) how,” said Mouret. “Everybody thinks that a perfume is a business strategy that revolves around money, but for me it was just based on emotion.”
Une Amouerette — which means a fling or a moment of passion in French — is a bold scent. It blends sweet notes such as cardamom with spicy, earthy ones such as oil-infused patchouli, vanilla or pink peppercorn that have a touch of provocation.
The designer worked with Givaudan perfumer Daniela Andrier. “It was a designer meeting an amazing nose, but also a man meeting a woman. Our first meeting was kind of like a date, we talked about what men feel and what women feel, about the skin and the ways we can share moments with another skin, the attraction of it,
Loving Tan, the skin-care line that carries bronzing products, has received the top spot on Tribe Dynamics’ earned media value skin-care report for July. It is reported the brand’s EMV was $3.8 million, a 41 percent increase from July 2016.
Following Loving Tan is Glamglow, which reported an earned media value of $3.7 million, and Farsali, which reported $3.5 million.
One of the most notable increases in EMV was experienced by Bali Body, which earned $3.2 million. This was a 522 percent increase from its EMV from July 2016, which was roughly $508,000.
Kiehl’s, which posted a $3.2 million earned media value, helped drive its growth with the initiative #LifeRide8. The campaign, which appeared across the brand’s social platforms and by consumers, raised funds for the HIV/AIDS research nonprofit, amfAR. For every photo posted with the hashtag, Kiehl’s donated $1 to the organization, which encouraged content creation among influencers and consumers. Altogether, the campaign helped generate $167,000 in earned media value.
For Tribe Dynamics’ hair-care report, L’Oréal Paris received the top spot with $5.8 million in EMV. This was an 89 percent increase from July 2016.
Coming in second was Brazilian Bond Builder, with $5.7 million in earned media value, a 1,238 percent increase from
Jamie Kern Lima is ready for the beauty industry to get real.
As she accepted her award at the CEW Achiever Awards on Friday, Lima, the founder and chief executive officer of It Cosmetics, called for the beauty industry to start using everyday women in imagery. Lima, who sold her business in 2016 to L’Oreal for $1.2 billion, explained why she uses real women in her campaigns.
“In the beauty industry, we’ve bought into the notion that you have to show these unattainable images of aspiration in order to sell products – me standing here right now and the success of It Cosmetics is proof that this isn’t true,” Lima said, launching into an impassioned speech as she accepted her award.
“What my gut told me was women are tired of buying from ads in commercials with women who don’t look like them,” Lima said, talking about her first launch on QVC. “I decided to literally risk everything and do things differently.” She sold out her 6,400 concealers in 10 minutes, she said.
It came at a time when a potential investor had told Lima that he was going to pass on doing a deal. “I’ll never forget when I asked him why. He
MILAN — Hospitality is the essence of the new Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle store inaugurated here on Thursday. Located in central Via Verri, in the city’s tony fashion district leading to Via Monte Napoleone, this is the first freestanding store of the artisanal fragrance brand in Milan, and the second in Italy, after Rome.
“When I make a store I always think, ‘how would my apartment look like if I had a place here?’” said Parisian parfumeur Frédéric Malle, introducing the concept of the unit. In this case in particular, he eventually opted for a total-white approach to enhance the existing architecture of the 431-square-foot space, distributed on two floors.
Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle store in Milan.
As per the company’s other stores in Paris, London, New York and Los Angeles, Malle conceived a different, specific interior concept for the Milanese unit, one that he has been curated himself. “Sometimes I work with big architects…but sometimes I do things on my own like I do my own place. This one is homemade,” he said.
The operation resulted in the introduction of personal, homey elements, as a replica of a white sofa he has in his apartment in New York, in addition
Now, at Canyon Ranch: Botox.
The luxury wellness resort next month is launching CR Aesthetics — an injectable treatment menu that includes Botox, Juvéderm and Kybella — at its flagship spa in Tucson, Ariz.
Canyon Ranch spent the past year testing the program on 10 of its cruise ship spas and it was an instant success, with revenue reaching the seven-figure range. Chief executive officer Susan E. Docherty said demand for injectables at the main Canyon Ranch spas is so high, the company will rollout CR Aesthetics to its locations in Lenox, Mass., and Las Vegas in 2018. Docherty declined to provide specific figures, but industry sources estimate the addition of injectables could increase the company’s revenue 15 percent per year. In Arizona, the CR Aesthetics menu will be open to people outside the resort to come in for treatment.
Canyon Ranch is known for its cushy wellness retreats — its resort locations offer a vast array of self-improvement-related activities, from Ayurvedic spa treatments to nutrition counseling and personal training. While standard facials have always been on the Canyon Ranch menu, Botox and fillers would have been considered off-brand 10 years ago — but in today’s increasingly wellness-obsessed culture, consumers are beginning to
As fashion retailers add beauty to build out shopping baskets, up-and-coming beauty brands are seizing the opportunity to expand with the right partner. That is the case for Ogee, a certified-organic, luxury skin-care line that found a fit this year in Free People’s new online beauty and wellness concept. Ogee is also sold in select physical Free People doors nationwide.
Ogee debuted in 2016 with the launch goal of first building a digital footprint for its core collection of Certified-Organic (it carries the NSF seal) luxury skin-care products that all feature cold-pressed jojoba oil as the hero ingredient. Now a year later, using feedback gleaned from online sales, Ogee took the retail plunge into 11 premium bricks-and-mortar doors with a heavy focus on reaching luxury boutiques in metropolitan areas like New York, Los Angeles and San Francisco. With the addition of Free People, Ogee is up to 70 points of distribution in the U.S., according to Abbott Stark, Ogee’s cofounder and chief marketing officer.
“From the start, we looked for and identified carefully curated, high-end beauty boutiques and spas,” added Stark. “We’ve also implemented strategic partnerships with high-end apparel, where and when it makes sense, such
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